Making out it alive, after a foray in the Llanganates, is a coveted prize in the imagination of many an Ecuadorian trekker. A site that very few have dared to explore, with acres upon acres of pristine wilderness encompassing a rainbow of ecosystems, this is a place you don´t just venture out into without due planning. The difficulty of the terrain, the sheer lack of infrastructure, wilderness galore… this is an adventure of a lifetime.
Ñan documented a twelve-day expedition led by Kingue Adventure School into this natural sanctuary as part of its Leave No Trace certification course… And true to Leave No Trace etiquette, this was an expedition that—if it weren’t for the profound experience it left in all those who participated—no one would know it ever took place.
Leaving a more poetic footprint, however, are the eloquent words of Paula María Holguín, our own Ñan-er, who recounts her adventures in the heart of the fascinating Llanganates mountain range.
D-Day
This is what I know so far, after our first (and last) prep meeting: we’re seven women, four men, two of them are instructors: Jorge Anhalzer and photographer Santiago Espinosa. There is a guide, José Ricardo; a cardiologist, Christian Fierro. Among the women: Dani Sandoval, physiotherapist and record-winning speed climber; Cornelia, environmental engineer; Fran, economist; Clau, another guide; a guest from abroad, Nikki (Panamanian mountaineer, feminist, and activist); and myself, traveling with Ñan, to document our foray into one of the most enigmatic corners of our country: the Llanganates.
Some believe an enormous treasure in gold and silver was hidden by the Incas in the folds of this particular mountain range. Dozens of hopeful treasure hunters have come and gone without ever finding the least bit of treasure. Twelve days in the field, with the first and last days in tents at Hostería Manteles, our base, and the rest of the time, pure wilderness where nobody knows for sure what to expect. The instructors are adamant: the entire route is tentative. It all depends on the climate, on the unevenness of the terrain, on the weight with which we travel.
We will use old topographic charts (from the 1950s to the 1970s) to navigate, creating a new route everyday. At one point, they say we will set out on a four-kilometer foray near Pisayambo Lake in which we will not have maps at all. We are not looking for treasure. Rather, the treasure is in the lessons that this wise and unfathomable piece of nature can teach us.
We can call it ‘nature learning’. An ‘apprenticeship in the outdoors’, in which we will put our lives on the line. We have no idea what we will find. We must use your instincts as we hike never-before-hiked expanses of nature and this connection with the uncertain is bound to inspire new insight on our very selves.
If you have to be evacuated, that can be a problem. It will take days to reach an evacuation route; or if the case requires it, a helicopter, the cost of which is covered by he or she who must be evacuated. (They say the first two reasons for evacuations are burns from the gas stoves and poor hygiene). A tip (of many tips to come): from the moment you pack your bags, think seriously about what you should take and what you should leave behind. Every gram is weight that you will have to deal with during your ten-day expedition. Another tip: you must be flexible. Flexibility wins.
Day 1
Manteles – Platupamba: 4,77 km
This is the day in which we carry the heaviest versions of our backpacks (60 – 70 lb). As we eat the food we brought along, that weight goes down. Keep in mind: whoever is carrying the pots must also carry the stove… If we lose any of the two items, we’re a goner!
We arrived at the camp at 1:30 pm. We learned to use the kitchenette; assemble it; read a topographic map. My backpack, by the way, is way too heavy. My arm goes numb the moment I strap it on me.
We completed almost 5 km with an elevation gain of 300 meters in 3 hours. The instructors gave us the option to continue or stay at the camp. We weighed the pros and cons, should we stay or should we go… and duly voted. Only one person wanted to continue. The decision was easier to make than expected; I suspect the reason was the camp (Platupamba) itself. The view from here is just mind-blowing as the entire region unfolds at your feet, with Tungurahua right in front of you, totally clear (with snow).
Before bed, we had our toothbrushing class (the ‘eco-friendly’ way to do it is: when you spit, spit hard and spread it out as much as possible, so that the sticky paste —and all that fluoride and chemicals— don’t concentrate in a single place).
We are still in the upper portion of Hacienda Manteles, just outside the valley. They warned us tomorrow is supposed to be the worst day.
Day 2
Platupamba – San Borja: 8,65 km
This was a long, difficult day, due to the weight, of course… but our motivation moves us along. The path up into the Llanganates is breathtaking. We passed small potato plantations—took a couple of potatoes on our way—and hiked amazing ancestral paths (aka culuncos).
We got a bit lost as we climbed. The initial plan was to get to Culli Gulli Lake, but we decided to stay in San Borja, which is located to one side of the lake, because Nikki couldn’t continue. On expeditions and treks like these, the group is as strong as its weakest member.
Today we learned that your impromptu bathroom in the wild should always be 200 meters from your water source, so as not to contaminate it. One must make his/her own hole and cover it after you’re done. And wash well. Note: notify your team members when you’re heading to the bathroom, just in case you get lost. That way, they will know to look for you if you don’t come back.
The afternoon was spectacular: Chimborazo volcano to one side, completely clear, with the city of Riobamba sitting sleepily under it. In the eastern mountain range, we could see Cerro Hermoso. It was a very strange effect, because at around 7 pm, you could still see the Chimborazo side sprinkled with late afternoon light; but over Cerro Hermoso it was already dark as night. A spectacular starry night, actually (beautiful but ice-cold).
I think the most difficult thing so far, outside of the weight and the hiking, is going to the bathroom. This is a Leave No Trace certified expedition, so you can’t bring toilet paper. But there’s no choice… You have to go… It’s a problem if you don’t go!
Day 3
San Borja – Pulpito: 7,5 km
We woke up at 5:30 am and left at 9 am; a bit late, to be honest. The groups were divided so that together each group had what it needed to spend the night alone, in case both groups didn´t reach the agreed objective together.
We got lost for over two hours … We made a wrong turn at Cerro Burro Corral and met a muleteer who told us that we were hiking towards Aluleo. Later we realized that he was referring to Aluleo the river and not Aluleo the lake. We had to turn around and climb straight back up. Luckily, motivation is still on a high and we didn’t waste a minute regretting the mishap. We only use GPS as a last resort. The idea is to navigate with maps and compasses, no technology.
As we were treading down the wrong path, the vegetation had changed from páramo to cloud forest. We should have realized that something was off. In addition, mosquitoes started appearing, something you don’t see anything of in páramo. We basically had to go back all the way to where we started.
This is the type of situation that teaches you just how important it is to locate yourself amid what’s around you: the mountains, mountain ranges, valleys, streams, lakes, vegetation, insects, etc.
Since we lost so much time, we had to stay at the Tres Lagunas camp near Cerro Pulpito. We were further stalled when changing from one map to another. It seemed that we were closer than we were. We arrived in the afternoon and the other group, almost at dusk.
I’m already realizing that I didn’t bring all the clothes I should have. Luckily, I got myself some sheepskin chaps for the cold (what a buy, a hidden gem!). I’m missing a waterproof sweater, a plastic thermos to put hot water inside my sleeping bag or in my sweater to stay warm (another great tip!). I also should have brought warmer pants for sleeping; although it is important not to sweat because sweating makes you colder. And most importantly: hiking canes, which are great for weight and balance.
We cooked all together. Santi showed us a special recipe, “Mountain” Pad Thai . The idea is that, simply because you’re in the wild, you should still eat as best as you can. Which helps keep the spirits up. Imagine ten days of snacks and tuna. Depressing…
Day 4
Tres Lagunas – Laguna Aluleo: 10 km
Today, as we hiked, we saw ‘achupalla’ plants all eaten up everywhere we looked (achupallas are a favorite of Andean bears; they eat them like we eat artichoke, leaf by leaf), which means the bears are close. I have never seen an Andean bear in the wild!
It was the most difficult day so far. We made it to the camp at 5:30 pm. On the last ridge, Tungurahua volcano surprised us again, totally open, with snow. We thought that the other group was not going to arrive. They didn’t answer the radio. We assumed they settled at a lake we had passed a few hours ago. Fortunately, we were with Cuervo, Doc, and Annie, who all had personal tents in which we could all fit.
At 7 pm we saw tiny silhouettes and lights of the other group’s lanterns on the edge of the mountain. What a relief! We were nervous (I’d say even sad) at the prospect of our team breaking up like that. As we watched them approach, we made tea and quesadillas to greet them and hopefully lift their spirits.
Day 5
Aluleo – Quillotura: 4 km
After the day we had yesterday, our instructors decided we should have some down time. We were only to hike 4 km and then rest at the next campsite.
I got tendinitis in my knee from the weight and back pain on my left side. Luckily my tent mate is a physiotherapist! Yesterday was not only difficult for us students, but for the instructors as well. Santi had to carry more than one backpack up the trail, as the hikers weren’t able to. He would go back and forth bringing backpacks!
We didn’t hike, really, but we weren’t just hanging out in our tents, either. We had class offered by Cuervo and George. We learned how to wash clothes in the wild? You put the clothes in a plastic bag; put water up to almost half and a little soap. Tie a knot and shake. Quite the washing machine. You must put your wet clothes to dry every time there’s sun or hang it from your backpack while you hike.
And have you heard of ‘scared coffee’? Do this if you don’t have a sieve. You put your ground coffee in a pot of boiling water and splash a jet of cold water in a circle. The change in temperature causes the coffee to go to the bottom.
Tomorrow we’ll be waking up at 3 am to start our day.
Day 6
Quillotura – Páramo Jaramillo: 14 km
We woke up as scheduled and it was raining (it rained until about 4 am). The same thing happened every morning. We started hiking at 5 am, in pitch black. As we camped right under a ridge, we were forced to climb back up with headlamps. It was a steep climb, but once we reached the highest section, things got better. We continued across several hills.
The sunrise was fabulous: all the snow-covered peaks (Illiniza Sur, Cotopaxi, Quilidaña, Chimborazo, Tungurahua, Sangay and El Altar) shined like diamonds against the sky. Hiking along the ridge was just magical, as we connected from mountain to mountain. We saw bear tracks along the way; they also use these paths.
On the way, we kept coming across chewed achupallas. It was an unmistakable sign… and suddenly, on a nearby cliff, I spotted the head of a bear staring in our direction. I desperately yelled ‘bear’ and pointed to it with my finger. It was my first Andean bear in the wild! But it ran off as soon as it heard me, heading down the valley. We had already made it to the mountain range in front of where we had camped. The distances we travel are incredible!
Day 7
Paramo Jaramillo – Base Cerro Hermoso
We started walking exactly at 7:26 am. It was snowing! The hike wasn’t easy because we crossed a field of sigse plants, which cut like paper as you walk… It’s horrible. I have my hands all cut up because of them.
Clau got sick. She vomited about seven times. We had to stop quite a bit and were concerned that she would have to be evacuated. We also didn’t want her to get dehydrated. The entire group was pushing her to go on as much as possible. We had to find the campsite quickly. The other problem was that, since we were moving so slowly, we had to look for it at night, descending the ridge and into a valley, where we could barely see a lake. It was our only chance. We had to have fresh water nearby… that is never negotiable. At times, we were just sliding down the slope. We were exhausted. It was the first time we continued hiking at night.
The camp was located in a site called Leones. It snowed and dawned with frost, which covered everything we left outside. We had an open view of Cerro Hermoso, as well as Chimborazo, El Altar and Tungurahua. It’s the first campsite in which we see traces of other visitors: toilet paper.
Day 8
Leones – Tambo de los Pillarejos
We left at 8:30 am and we crossed the part of the lake where we had camped and continued through a valley hoping to reach the base of Cerro Hermoso. My knee was in pain the entire route. I was not motivated at all. We saw an Andean bear in the distance; we stopped to see it, but it disappeared. It’s incredible how they can feel our presence from so far away.
I felt totally transformed after lunch. Ready and full of energy. So, we continued as the fog began to rise from below. We were able to identify tapir tracks on the ground. We reached the ridge and continued along a series of narrow peaks (4,350) just to the side of Cerro Hermoso, and were separated from this summit by a small valley. The mountain seemed gigantic; you could see its every fold, including beautiful Bruner Lake (Bruner was apparently the only treasure hunter to make any money from the treasure… by ripping people off!).
Day 9
Tambo de Pillarejos – Rio Muyo
It took us a while to eat breakfast and pack. We ended up leaving at 7:10 am after a motivational speech dedicated to the so-called ‘last push’ of our journey.
The road was muddy; a very difficult hike because your boots get stuck or you slip. We saw tapir and puma tracks on the trails. The climb was difficult. We were going to get to a campsite called Campamento Mirador to rest for lunch, just down from the last summit (the last campsite before the Muyo river).
The descent to the Muyo river is spectacular. Instantly, the páramo vegetation changes into a humid forest. We went through many natural tunnels made by the protruding roots of trees. It seemed like a fairy tale land, at times needing to get on all fours to advance (the tallest members of our team would crawl like soldiers through the mud).
It was a large river, but luckily the current was not too strong where we were going to cross it. It wasn’t a calm river either, but calm enough for us to be able to get through. By the way, when you cross a river with a large backpack, undo all straps that tie you to it, just in case the current takes you wit it… that way you can free yourself from the extra weight.
After several hours, we finally reached the camp. It was already 10 pm. We went straight to change because we were soaked and then, although already very tired, began to cook; eating is the only way to recover and be well for the next day. We made ourselves a couscous with cheese and sundried tomatoes. Then we slept.
Día 10
Rio Muyo – National Park Entrance: 5 km
Today we head to the Llanganates park entrance, in El Triunfo. El Triunfo is the upper part of the Patate district. You have to go through Mirador de la Cima, from where you can see the city of Baños. I got up at 5:45 am. I started washing the pot from the day before (where we made the couscous) to heat water and make myself some ‘scared coffee’. Since we had some time, I decided to make bread with Parmesan and sunflower seeds. Trying to use as much flour as possible so that the suitcase would weigh less (flour is what weighs the most).
We followed the river all the way: it was an irregular, muddy path. And long. The hiking seemed difficult as I had trouble stepping in the right places and keeping up. They warned us this could happen. And it’s in these moments that you have to beware of accidents.
We were all ecstatic when we finally saw the trucks that came to pick us up. We weren’t sure they would be waiting for us, as we were three hours late. We whistled and shouted at them from afar so that they would see us and not leave. We had made it!
After taking a group photo, we left the Park and stopped at the first store in El Triunfo. It felt strange to reach civilization again. The snack was on Doc. We all had our specific cravings. Me, Doritos and a ‘Tango’ chocolate bar. Cuervo, chips and a Coke (like George and Santi), Corne ordered bread and a banana. Clau, ice cream.
We all lost weight from the exertion. Our pants were falling off! And we looked terrible. Full of mud. Our hands cut and burnt. We arrived at Manteles happy (and, incredibly, still with energy). We emptied our backpacks. We organized the remaining food. We checked the equipment before we showered for the first time in ten days.
The shower felt incredible (but untangling the hair was a pain!). I had to rinse three times. We all had a great goodbye dinner: made pizzas and shared with the owners of Hacienda Manteles and their family.
An adventure that will stay deep in my memory and an education in nature that will be cherished for the rest of my life.
Text and photos: María Paula Holguín
