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As we pass Machachi, before entering the Cotopaxi National Park, we lose contact with the urban world. Without a mobile signal or internet, it’s now the winds, the wild horses and the great imposing snow-peak that crowns the Andes mountain range that accompany us on

The Galapagos Islands are the last port for the boats that each year cross the Pacific, the greatest of the planet’s oceans, towards French Polynesia. More daring travelers can stick their thumbs out in the port of Santa Cruz, and join a real-life odyssey.

Esmeraldas blossoms in Benjamín Vanegas. His voice blends an ancestral quivering and the youthful energy of the streets, undoubtedly one of Ecuador’s finest. His marimba is made of PVC pipes, instead of the usual bamboo canes. He began his musical adventure like most Esmeraldeños: with

It is time for lunch and a clutch men return to the village clasping their fishing rods and buckets with the river’s offerings: fleshy and silvery gualajos (a local fish). Others return with their machetes belted to their waists, with a bunch of overflowing plantains

Colorful bamboo inns, stalls selling coconut milk shakes and fruit smoothies where before you only saw a few ramshackle huts. There were empty beaches where today bronzed surfers idle by with their battered boards. And on the beach, motorboats have been relegated to the southern

It is four o'clock in the morning. The soft hues of twilight paint the skies and the waves caress the sand calmly, less intense than in the afternoon. On the shore, you can already hear the clutter and the first fishing boats pushing out bravely

Throughout these rolling hills and mountains tucked behind the Illinizas, communities are hard at work, tilling, sewing, harvesting, processing, selling. Their fertile lands might one day become as famous, for their beauty and for their products, as the Loire or Napa valleys of the developed

When I think of Latacunga’s signature dish, the chugchucara, I must confess that I fall prey to a syndrome that we’ve all experienced when we desire something intensely: my mind is transported. I travel to what “chugchucara street" (calle Quijano y Ordóñez), where a singular